2nd attempt to complete the NC vehicle ferry ride!

In May, Paul Ashworth and I set off to ride all the vehicle ferries in NC.  On that trip we rode on 6 of the ferries leaving 4 to wrap up on our next trip.  As with any good adventure there were some challenges that prevented completion in one trip.  The easiest part of this is the DOT manned ferries that run on a published schedule and pretty much to the minute.  We completed 5 of these.

Completed ferries in May:

Aurora to Bayview

Cedar Island to Ocracoke

Cherry branch to Minnesott

Southport to Fort Fisher

Hatteras to Ocracoke

Swan Quarter to Ocracoke

All great rides and only 2 with a charge $10, that being Swan Quarter and Cedar Island.  Those were also the longest rides at 2 1/4 and 2 3/4 hours long.  If you go this route be sure to pack snacks and water.  For whatever reason DOT has removed the vending machines from these ferries.  If you are going to Ocracoke make sure of the schedule and be there for checkin 30 minutes ahead and have reservations.  The penalty for missing the ferry is high!  Both Swan Quarter and Cedar Island are at the end of the earth, sorry, road in the middle of nowhere.

Both Elwell and San Souci ferries were not running due to mechanical problems and high water.  We didn’t try to get to Knott’s Island or Parker’s Ferry.  So we had another trip to make.

October 14th we are off to complete the remaining 4 ferries:

Currituck to Knotts Island (DOT)

Elwell Ferry

San Souci Ferry

Parkers Ferry

We left Cary on a beautiful day heading for the Elwell Ferry.  Along the way Paul managed to pick up some state parks in his Passport book. Singletary Park was a short way from Elwell.  This is our second trip here and again mechanical problems.

 

This is a tough start since this is the southernmost ferry but we can catch it later on a lunch trip to Calabash.  So now we are watching the clock to make sure that we can make the 4:30 Cedar Island ferry so we needed to be there at 4:00 to check in.  We had reservations. 

The route to Cedar Island is a pure 2 lane rural route with many road changes and it looked like it was going to be close but we needed gas and food because now it was 1:00.   

We needed to pick up the pace to get there and with me being one of the slowest people in the Club I wasn’t sure I could get there.  Paul, with Ducati blood in his veins, should have been leading.  We got there with 12 minutes to spare and I suspect that I might have been speeding at some point.  This was the only time critical crossing that we had to make.  After this we were on vacation.

Arrived in Ocracoke at 6:45  

Great dinner, nice hotel room and off to bed.  We were a bit tired!

Another beautiful day and after breakfast at a little coffee shop we were off to the Hatteras ferry.

The Hatteras Lighthouse was closed for repointing the bricks and painting and would reopen next year in October.  Bodie Island Lighthouse was closed for Climbing season.  

 

Day 2 found us in Kitty Hawk so why not the birthplace of aviation! 

We spend a couple of hours and climbed the hill to the monument.  It’s a beautiful museum.

Another great seafood dinner and off to our little hotel.

Day 4 would complete our outer banks ride with a stop at the Corolla Post Office for Paul and a place I had never been to, the Currituck Lighthouse.  229 steps later we were at the top.  Not one of my shinning moments but a  view well worth the climb. 

We hustled off to the Currituck Ferry and of  course we missed the 1:00 by 15 minutes.  That left a gap of 3 hours before the next one so we rode into Elizabeth City to look around and returned to catch the 4:00 and turn around returning on the 5:00 because it was late.

There was a small problem here!  The ferry ride across Currituck Sound was smooth with high winds.  As we were approaching Knott's Island the wind blew the ferry sideways into the pilings.  I saw it coming but expected the pilings to give a bit but they didn't and it was a solid hit.  Paul and I were both bracing for the hit but is was severe.  We were on both bikes and prepared but the bike and I were laid out on the deck and Paul was up against the wall of the ferry.  No damage but a good scare.  The crew was on us in a second and helped us up and checked to make sure we were ok.  No harm done but a shock to say the least.

 

 We found a little restaurant on river road in Elizabeth City and had another great meal.  Our last day was coming up and with at least one new ferry crossing we had 2 cable ferries left.

Thursday morning started with a cold rain so we reluctantly decided to eat the free breakfast at the Baymont.  Not good but the rain lifted while we were eating so it looked like another dry day.

To get to the Parker’s Ferry you have to drive through the Courthouse parking lot, out a small road in the back, drive past a huge new prison onto a pretty ugly dirt/gravel road to the ferry.  We weren’t optimistic.  The road kept getting smaller and we couldn’t understand why a ferry would be there, but it was.

 

We later found out this one was closed because of low water.  They seem to have many excuses for not running.  There is a large fish hatchery on the other side of the river but nothing else in this area.

Neither one of us figured the San Souci Ferry would be running but it was an hour south near Plymouth and maybe better water.  Paul was sure we would be skunked on the cable ferries but I was trying to be more positive. Our record so far wasn’t very good.

But:

This man was just sitting there waiting for us.  The flashing light on the sign said OPEN!

This ferry was a 2 car, maximum of 6 people ferry.  It was just us.  The ferry slides along a steel cable across the river and the front ramp drops on the bank leading up to the road.

We ended up on a very nice road until a sign appeared   THIS ROAD NOT  MAINTAINED BY THE STATE!

This was an unplanned part of the adventure, a sand road for 2 miles through the cotton fields.

2 miles through some farmers field of cotton back to pavement.  We really had no problem.

We were back onto the road home after a chicken lunch at a very old chicken diner in Williamston.

Still 2 cable ferries left to complete and I doubt we will get them this year.  It is kind of like golf, you can have a terrible day on the links but get a birdie on the last hole and you are raring to go out again.  We finished on a high note and we will get the last 2 done but maybe not this year.

A great trip!  Paul was a great companion for traveling the NC Ferries! 

Trip to Columbia, MO to visit old friends

It was time for a road trip to see 2 of my oldest friends. 53 years ago Tom and I were going through AIT at Fort Leonard Wood, MO and after the Army moved us to two different locations we ended up in Darmstadt Germany on opposite sides of a small parking lot, In different companies. I met Marcia at their wedding some 50 years ago.

 

So I took off on the Goldwing, having owned it for 2 weeks, and endured the traffic of West Virginia, the heat in Illinois, and 120 miles through St. Louis in the middle of Hurricane Beryl dumping tons of water on me.  

I wrestled with the various routes for a couple of weeks, checking the weather along each and the mileage. The fastest was the route through West Virginia, Louisville, KY, St. Louis, MO to Columbia. The route with the highest level of heat and humidity was Asheville, NC, to Nashville, TN, Paducah, KY, Mount Vernon, Il, St. Louis to Columbia, The route through KY to Paducah, KY, St. Louis, to Columbia was the most enjoyable for a motorcycle ride but the mileage was estimated to be 100 miles longer than the other two. Since Tom and Marcia were going on a trip after my visit I decided to take the fastest route through WV. BIG MISTAKE!

The two most important things missing from the routing programs that load into a bikes GPS are weather and traffic. These two are important! Everything went smoothly until after NC52 connecting with I74 then a 2-3 mile backup getting onto I77 going to WV. Bumper to Bumper traffic not allowing people to merge into I77. It took me 45 minutes just to get to a point where I could squeeze into I77. The next problem was for some reason people traveling through WV have never seen a tunnel before. These tunnels are huge and divided between north and south. They are well lit and clearly posted 55 MPH! All the cars ground to a halt at the entrance at 25 MPH and slowly went through creating a 3 mile back up for each tunnel, with NO traffic on the other side of the tunnel. You might guess by now that the three upcoming toll plazas were the same. Yes, 2-3 mile stop and go backups. This has pushed me into the heat of the afternoon, not where I wanted to be. I passed through Charleston, WV to Barboursville where I found a Best Western at 5 PM. 8 hours on the road.

Monday I left early planning to stop in Mount Vernon, IL. The plan was to ride early about 400 miles and checkin early. Weather was clear but humid and traffic was minimal, so a good riding day. I stayed in Mount Vernon at the Quality Inn, it was ok but did have a bug problem. Well you get what you pay for at $89 room.

Tuesday I was watching the weather closely since Hurricane Beryl was coming across my path. The weather forecast for St. Louis to Columbia was for the heavy rains to hit St. Louis between 12:00 and 3:00 so I was going to leave at 8:30 am so I could be on the other side of city and the storm would pass behind me. With 80 miles to St. Louis I would be clear of the storm into the lighter rain going into Columbia. The weather forecasters have Double Doppler, Triple Doppler, Satellite imagery and numerous models to explain how accurate they are. Let me reassure you that they have no idea what is happening on an hourly basis. They may look and sound good on TV but from my helmet it was garbage! I was 30 miles down the road going into the middle of ST. Louis on I64, connecting with I70 and the skies opened up. Torrents of rain for the next 120 miles with visibility close to 100 yds. People ask "Why didn't you just stop for the night?" I was in East St. Louis and no one should ever stop there. I have to give credit to the Goldwing here because any other bike and I would have been forced to stop. The aerodynamics of that bike brushes the wind and water off easily and felt totally in control the whole time. I still got to Columbia dry.

We had a great couple of days catching up and it was so good to see them and spend some time together. Marcia always plans things to do like picnics and hikes. I would have stayed longer but you know these retirees, they were off on a trip after I left.

I took a different route back through Kentucky, VA into NC. My goal was to stay out of the heat. It didn't work, it was hot all the way home. I should point out here that the weather people forecast that the highs all across KY would be 85 degrees. The bike was saying it was 93 degrees, I know who was accurate. I took 4 days to get home and I drank lots of water and gatorade. I stopped in Paducah, KY, London, KY and since the miles and heat were wearing on me, I stopped at Willville to catch my breath and cool off on the porch. Will offered me the Bunkhouse but i wanted air conditioning so I booked a room in Martinsville, VA, partway home and cooled off there overnight. All toll it was a 2250 mile round trip leaving on Sunday and returning on Sunday.

Things of note: the shortest distance planned by Basecamp is not always the fastest. Opt for the road less traveled. The 2 lane and divided 4 lanes in KY had no traffic and the scenery was beautiful. All 5 motels were around $100 with Best Western Plus the nicest. At $100 you get a clean room and a hot shower. Don't count on the tv working or if it does the cable choices are minimal. The wifi will be slow.  The ones cheaper than $100 may come with roommates, usually crawling around in the bathroom but there is no extra charge for this.

I always carry a $10 roll of quarters, a couple of laundry detergent pods and some Bounce dryer sheets. I do laundry every 4 days and no one has change. The dryer sheets are good to have if you become overrun with bugs on the windshield, wet the sheets and they dissolve the bugs away.

I would do that trip again in a second but I would add on 4 more days to enjoy the sights. I doubt I will ever see WV again in July and August.

New Wheels! for long distances.

Well, my wife has been lobbying for a more comfortable back seat so she can go on more trips.  For 3 years she has suggested that a Goldwing would be the right bike.  So I refer to the Wing as her bike and I am just the chauffeur!

It's a 2018 Honda Goldwing Tour.  I opted to find a standard transmission after fully considering the DCT or automatic transmission.  The standard gives the rider more control of the bike at low speeds and I have always had standard transmissions in my bikes so I am very comfortable with it.  This is still a heavy bike at close to 800 lbs so better control is important to me.  I have added a back rest for the driver(chauffeur} and a large cup holder for the passenger.  Now I have company for my lunch rides to Calabash!  The bike has 19,000 miles on it and these bikes easily travel 200,000 miles trouble free.  

For my camping trips I will continue to ride the BMW R1200gsa and the Suzuki DR650,  Things are a bit tight in the garage these days!

The last Day, we will have to return to finish this.

We got a good nights sleep this time and after the hotel breakfast were off to the Bayview to Aurora Ferry.    but first a quick stop in the town of Plymouth, NC on the Roanoke River.  The town itself is pretty sad due to the paper mill just up river and the obvious smell wafting over the town.  The waterfront is beautiful.

It was a short ride to the Bayview Ferry.  We were the only vehicles for the ferry.  It was a big ferry too.  

  The crew enjoyed the story of our trip.   I asked why this ferry is here and the answer was two fold.  1.  the huge farm equipment works both sides of the Pamlico River and 2.  Off in the distance was a massive phosphate plant.  It is the largest employer in the county.  They draw workers from both sides of the river.

We were heading back home so Paul could make his trip to Greenville, SC.  It was 95℉ so we stopped multiple times to hydrate and cool off.  It was a great trip but we needed one more day to finish it.

The Outer Banks loop back to Ocracoke

 It was a fitful nights sleep.  The beds were pretty ugly and the place made the Super 8's look like 5 Star hotels but it was cheap.  We were both up at 6:00 partly due to the fear of not making the 1:30 ferry back to Swan Quarter because then we would be stuck for another night with no reservations.  We got up and packed then decided to get breakfast and race to the Hatteras Ferry.  We were at the Pony Cafe when it opened at 7:00 and had an excellent breakfast.  It was only about a 30 minute ferry to Hatteras Island then we had to do a U-turn and get back on the ferry.  The last ferry out of Ocracoke was at 1:30pm so we needed to hustle.  The Hatteras Ferry leaves every 30 minutes and the ride is 1 hour 30 minutes.  

While we were sent to the front of the line, we were still the last to get on the ferry.  It makes it a little nerve wracking waiting because I have been turned away at these ferries without reservations.  The huge RV parked in front of us was driven by a woman that sold all her belongings 3 years ago and bought the RV and has been touring the US continually.  The crossing was calm and when we arrived at Hatteras they told us we had to leave like all the cars and do a U-turn then return to the Ferry and get in line.  There were 4 full lines of cars waiting and they were starting to fill the 5th one.  Two lines filled a ferry so we weren't sure of getting on the next one, or the one we just got off of.  They waved us to the front again and this time they loaded us first.  Now another 1 1/2 hr ride back to Ocracoke.  We were going to have free time going back.

Going through the area under construction was interesting.  Last week the road had been overwashed and the sand bags washed away.  They now had forklifts carrying huge sand bags and rebuilding the barrier.  The ocean came up to the road and with a wind would easily wash over the road.  I tried to take a picture on the move but it wasn't great but you can see the sand bags over my shoulder.

Three days after our crossing they had to shut down the road again due to over wash.  

We took a break at the Pony Pens and it was a beautiful clear day and the ponies were out grazing.  It look like a great facility for them.

We rolled into town with time to spare so we found a good restaurant.  SmacNally's Seafood and Bar was on the way to the ferry so we had a leisurely lunch and the food was excellent.  We made the 1:30 ferry and went right on.  I think both of us took a nap during the 2hr and 40 min ride to Swan Quarter.  

We had to change the routing since Paul had to be in Greenville SC on Friday.  So we left for Plymouth to find the San Souci Ferry.  This was a small 2 car ferry that Paul had been on when he did the bicycle from the Mountains to the Shore, years ago.  It was getting late and these small ferries are unpredictable and sure enough it wasn't running.

In fact it was under water.  It was quite a challenge turning the bikes around with water all around.

So we found our way back to Plymouth and found a hotel and a mexican restaurant.

 Then we crashed for the night.  The many hours sitting on the ferries seemed to be as tiring as actually riding the motorcycle.

Day 2 of the NC Ferry trip

We knew that we needed to at least catch the 4:30 ferry to Ocracoke, the last one of the day.  They only have 3 ferries from Cedar Island and only one of these is in the early afternoon.  We still had to take the Cherry Branch to Minnesot and back before heading the ferry.  It was a short ride to Cherry Branch even including my poor GPS skills and an added 60 miles going in the wrong direction.  It seems that my GPS was programed to go to the ferry yesterday and there was a waypoint that was an outlier on that route.  So the GPS had us going to that point before heading to the ferry.  Once I figured out this problem the road to the ferry was only 25 miles from the motel.

Not many people heading to the town of Minnesot.  So it was a pretty nice ride over the Neuse River.  When we got to the landing we had to exit and loop around back into the line to go back to Cherry Branch.  The ferry crew got a kick out of us doing a round trip and visited with us to hear about our journey.  It was a beautiful day and the water was smooth.  Even though these ferries seem small they do all have an air-conditioned waiting room up top with a nice view.  Given that we were crossing in 40 minutes we tended to hang around the bikes.  As we approach the ferry landing the crew wanted us to be with the bike just is case the captain bumped the landing a bit hard which could topple the bikes.  No problems here so off to Cedar Island.

There was a short cut to Cedar Island from Cherry Branch that was a beautiful countryside ride for 1 hour.  It looked like we were going to be there almost 3 hours early and Paul figured we could look around  and find a place to eat.   Well, it's been 5 years since my last trip to Cedar Island and there was nothing there except the dead end of the road.  About 3 miles from the Ferry landing was a gas station with non-ethanol gas and a little snack bar with prepared sandwiches.

Well, they did have ice cream!  So we relaxed for 2 hours in the cool place before heading to the ferry to look around.  The last three miles were as I remembered...nothing, just a dead end road.  The old motel at the ferry looked like they were trying to refurbish it for the season,  I have never seen it open.  Paul seemed to especially shocked that a few people live at the end of the road with nothing there.  Not even a Dollar General.

There was a nice waiting area and plenty of benches to relax.  This ferry to Ocracoke was about a 2 hr and 15 min ride across the sound.  It is a beautiful little island with plenty of B&B's and very good restaurants.     $10 for a motorcycle seems like a bargain.  I can also take a little nap.

It had been a long day with a lot of sitting.  We took a ride around the town and of course had to stop a the lighthouse.  Now the important stuff!  We ate dinner at the 1718 Brewing and Paul did manage to find an ice cream shop before heading to the motel, the next morning breakfast was at Pony Island Restaurant.  Very good options.  Now a word about off season travel in tourist areas.  Not all restaurants are open.  The schools are not out yet and therefore staffing is a problem.  So many wait until Memorial Day to open.  The ferries also add more boats to the schedule but remember always, ALWAYS! have a reservation on the ferries.  The motel we stayed at didn't deserve mention since it was one of the last rooms available.

Time to turn in!